Saturday, August 23, 2008


Mike Hynson, San Diego 1966

Yeah, summer in San Diego is crowded, but it's fun seeking the little nooks that very few people surf. I've been hitting a couple spots for many years where people can be fewer than 50 yards away in a herd while I surf either alone or with a couple of others. Not sure why/how this happens, but it always amazes me that you can get that in the middle of summer in a place like San Diego.

Yesterday was one of those days when a magic window opens between high and low tide and everything falls into place. When I first got out there was too much water, conditions weren't coming together, but you could tell there was a little pulse. So, I got a few here and there before deciding to do some laps for exercise. By the time I paddled back to my usual spot everything had changed. The tide was going out and it was only a matter of time before it would get too low. In the span of an hour I don't know how many waves I had, but they just kept coming. A few people paddled over with enough to go around and within ten minutes everyone was gone, all going in at the same time. I stayed out for another 45 minutes and had some really fun waves. It had become oil-slick glass with the sunlight just perfect, the water nice and blue, and it might sound goofy, but I was so aware of being a Californian. It was just a very California moment is all I can say. While there have been some fun days here and there this summer, this just happened to be one beyond the norm. The waves weren't extraordinary, but really fun, no wind, good light, warm water, the Vaquero in effect, and nearly nobody else around. It's one of those sessions that fulfills you in a different way. Glad to see those still exist.

Saturday, August 16, 2008

Fresh Fruit

Jello Biafra interviewed by Jools Holland during the Fresh Fruit for Rotting Vegetables era.

Wednesday, August 13, 2008

I Heart Vests

I don't know why, but I haven't had a vest for a few years now. I used to always wear them from late spring into early fall, but I've been wearing a jacket for a while since I've been fried on the shoulders a fair amount of times in life. But, I decided it's time again as I'm sick of having tan hands and nothing else. I know, a vest tan isn't much better.

Anyway, I was on a mission for a thicker vest with smoothie, and I was kind of hot on the O'Neill O'riginal series vest. Not to be all retro, but I can't hang with so many vests and the disco logos they have going on. Yeah, I'm weird that way. Anyway, I could not find my size in any shop. Finally I did, and it fit great except for the big chunk taken out of the back, most likely from someone's fingernail. No thanks. So, I was about to give up when I happened into a random shop and found the Nine Plus vest above. Now, these things run pretty small, and I was bummed to see they only had an XXL size. But I tried it on, and it was perfect. Plus, it has a zip instead of being a straight pullover like the O'Neill. All happened the way it was meant to. And, Patagonia was completely sold out until next year, so that wasn't an option.

Why am I writing so much about a vest? The thing is 3 mm, super comfortable with the Yamamoto smoothie, and my favorite vest so far. I have heard of some durability issues with the Nine Plus fulls, but I take really good care of all my shit, so I have high hopes that this one will last a while for me.

A few fun days of surf early in the week and the end of last week. All in all, not a bad summer for surf around here other than the wind.

Hope you're all enjoying yours.

Wednesday, August 6, 2008


One of my favorite images from Dane Peterson's Flickr page.

Saturday, August 2, 2008


Who the hell would wear this? But if you feel so inclined, it can be yours for $1,295. No problem! The description says it was made in the 60s, but who knows. It may well be. I'll shut up and let you check out the description they retailer provides:

You are looking at one of the most highly sought after vintage shirts on this planet. This very, very rare pleasure from paradise was put out in the 1960's to promote the now infamous surfing movie "Endless Summer". The fabic on this vintage treasure is graced with a killer full panel pattern on both the back and front of the shirt (see photos). You will see the silhouettes of surfers against a golden yellow and atomic orange sunset. This baby also has a zip up the front so you can be as sexy as you want to be !! Or you can wear this as a jacket with a t-shirt underneath. Do not miss this once in a life time chance to own a killer piece of Hawaiian shirt surfing history. This stunning shirt would look amazing framed in koa wood and hung as a piece or art !!

Yep, it actually said, "as sexy as you want to be" and it was talking about this very shirt. Damn.