Thursday, January 1, 2009

Hello 2009. Goodbye SB1000.

Well, it's time. I originally started this blog as a way to channel my surf obsession, and I think it has run its course (the blog, not my surf obsession). Nowadays I'm more into reading all of the great surf blogs that are still vital, posting interesting bits consistently. I have really enjoyed sharing the stuff I'm into, and I appreciate everyone who has stopped by to check in.

I'll still be reading my favorite surf blogs, commenting here and there. I'm always reachable at our shop, and for those interested, you can check out my other blog here.

Thanks to all, and I wish you the best in 2009. Happy surfing and all the other stuff you like to do. This has been a good time.

Take care,

Tuesday, December 9, 2008


Man, a lot more work than surf lately. Yep, haven't been out in three weeks. Yep, missed all of the recent swell activity. Yep, I'm a kook because I just cannot get my ass up early enough to surf before the rest of the day starts.

To be fair, we just opened our new business, and after so much effort it has been it's own massive reward for sure. I do need some water in the gills, but I'm really stoked on what we have created. Not a surplus of sleep though.

So, I'll keep posting from time to time. There are so many other vital, active surf blogs these days, there's more than enough to check out as it is. Still, I can't seem to pull the plug completely. I still enjoy reading all of your blogs, pretty much everyday.

If you're into tea and you're in or near San Diego, I'm at the shop everyday except Monday. Halcyon Tea: 3009 Beech Street, 92102 in South Park.

The tide is pretty damn high tomorrow morning.

Thursday, November 20, 2008

This Never Gets Old

You've probably seen it, but I never get tired of watching Val Ching from 1963.

Tuesday, November 11, 2008

Sunday, November 2, 2008

Friday, October 31, 2008

Nude as the News

I'm digging this live clip. Chan Marshall with Steve Shelley on point behind the kit.

Friday, October 24, 2008


Love this photo. Found it via the resintint blog, which I always enjoy checking out. The photographer is Keith Novosel, and you can see more of his work at

Been into the weather and zero wind all day long. Had a few really fun sessions over the past couple of weeks. Hope you've all been getting your share too.

Sunday, October 12, 2008

Wednesday, October 1, 2008

Classic San Diego

Osprey, 1966

Big Rock, 1966

Skip at PB Point, 1965

You may have already seen this Flickr set, but if you haven't there are a few gems for sure.

Saturday, September 27, 2008

Dorkiness From Yesteryear

Don't ask me how I came across this photo; I don't recall. Honestly. But, for whatever reason this appeared and I was instantly blasted back to 1980 or so. I had one of these on my Torker. Or, maybe it was after that, on my Diamond Back. Anyway, I hadn't seen nor thought of anything related to the whole BMX thing since I was about 11. It was a trip.

Can you tell the surf has been lame around here the past few days?

Monday, September 22, 2008


Wish I brought the camera today. The local beach was glassy for hours, clean with some very fun pick-and-choose gems. The light was absolutely incredible, and I simply couldn't get out of the water. Neck and shoulders are a bit worked due to lots of laps and stalking the shifting corners. To top it off, really good vibes in the water and very few people. I'm still feeling the buzz.

Monday, September 15, 2008

Bronx River Parkway

La Valla. This is a must listen.

Up early today, but nothing too happening surf-wise. Had a fun hour-long session on Friday. Sometimes the local beach works well at high tide. Some fun little peelers before dark.

Wednesday, September 10, 2008

Damn, JB! Where you been?

Workin'! Been super busy, and the shop is almost open. Have some final build-out to do, but we're almost there. Still been making time to get in the water, but the weather/wind hasn't cooperated with me the past few days. Yesterday I had to drive up to LA and it was sunny, minimal wind, and it looked fun driving past a few spots. Got up this morning and the wind was already on it! I gotta get in tomorrow no matter what.

We printed up these shop business cards a few weeks back. Not sure if there are any ink-on-paper heads out there, but I'm stoked on the subtle letterpress job. Doing the design for your own company is always complicated, but in the end I'm pretty stoked.

Thanks for checking in.


Saturday, August 23, 2008


Mike Hynson, San Diego 1966

Yeah, summer in San Diego is crowded, but it's fun seeking the little nooks that very few people surf. I've been hitting a couple spots for many years where people can be fewer than 50 yards away in a herd while I surf either alone or with a couple of others. Not sure why/how this happens, but it always amazes me that you can get that in the middle of summer in a place like San Diego.

Yesterday was one of those days when a magic window opens between high and low tide and everything falls into place. When I first got out there was too much water, conditions weren't coming together, but you could tell there was a little pulse. So, I got a few here and there before deciding to do some laps for exercise. By the time I paddled back to my usual spot everything had changed. The tide was going out and it was only a matter of time before it would get too low. In the span of an hour I don't know how many waves I had, but they just kept coming. A few people paddled over with enough to go around and within ten minutes everyone was gone, all going in at the same time. I stayed out for another 45 minutes and had some really fun waves. It had become oil-slick glass with the sunlight just perfect, the water nice and blue, and it might sound goofy, but I was so aware of being a Californian. It was just a very California moment is all I can say. While there have been some fun days here and there this summer, this just happened to be one beyond the norm. The waves weren't extraordinary, but really fun, no wind, good light, warm water, the Vaquero in effect, and nearly nobody else around. It's one of those sessions that fulfills you in a different way. Glad to see those still exist.

Saturday, August 16, 2008

Fresh Fruit

Jello Biafra interviewed by Jools Holland during the Fresh Fruit for Rotting Vegetables era.