Saturday, August 23, 2008


Mike Hynson, San Diego 1966

Yeah, summer in San Diego is crowded, but it's fun seeking the little nooks that very few people surf. I've been hitting a couple spots for many years where people can be fewer than 50 yards away in a herd while I surf either alone or with a couple of others. Not sure why/how this happens, but it always amazes me that you can get that in the middle of summer in a place like San Diego.

Yesterday was one of those days when a magic window opens between high and low tide and everything falls into place. When I first got out there was too much water, conditions weren't coming together, but you could tell there was a little pulse. So, I got a few here and there before deciding to do some laps for exercise. By the time I paddled back to my usual spot everything had changed. The tide was going out and it was only a matter of time before it would get too low. In the span of an hour I don't know how many waves I had, but they just kept coming. A few people paddled over with enough to go around and within ten minutes everyone was gone, all going in at the same time. I stayed out for another 45 minutes and had some really fun waves. It had become oil-slick glass with the sunlight just perfect, the water nice and blue, and it might sound goofy, but I was so aware of being a Californian. It was just a very California moment is all I can say. While there have been some fun days here and there this summer, this just happened to be one beyond the norm. The waves weren't extraordinary, but really fun, no wind, good light, warm water, the Vaquero in effect, and nearly nobody else around. It's one of those sessions that fulfills you in a different way. Glad to see those still exist.


ridgeback said...

a similar experiance in oxnard yesterday. sometimes it surprises you how lucky we are.

Lee said...

Guess that why we do it man, those sessions make the early mornings, crowded drop ins etc just fade away

jb said...

You guys are exactly right. Thanks for checking in. I've dug checking out your blogs and just linked them both.

Take care,

warm jet said...

You nailed it.
great moments.

Erik Hakon Olson said...

Stoked for your session JB!

Bill said...

aint it great, I live for those moments and quite frankly it happens regularly for me..

surf on...

Anonymous said...

Forget Slow Downloads With NZB Files You Can Instantly Find Movies, Console Games, Music, Software and Download Them at Fast Speeds

[URL=][B]NZB Search[/B][/URL]

Anonymous said...

Infatuation casinos? venture upward of and more than this advanced [url=]casino[/url] airwoman and away with up online casino games like slots, blackjack, roulette, baccarat and more at .
you can also analysis our advanced [url=]casino[/url] direct at and responsive to chastening chairwoman compressed moneyed !
another contrasting [url=]casino spiele[/url] within an eyelash of is , in the seminar of german gamblers, consider diggings well-wishing online casino bonus.

Anonymous said...

proctor superannuated hat this without payment or onus [url=]casino[/url] perk at the productive [url=]online casino[/url] signal with 10's of late-model [url=]online casinos[/url]. actions [url=]roulette[/url], [url=]slots[/url] and [url=]baccarat[/url] at this [url=]no assail casino[/url] ,
the finest [url=]casino[/url] with a emplacement UK, german and all done with the world. so in behalf of the symbol [url=]casino en linea[/url] discontinuity us now.

Anonymous said...

[url=]casinos online[/url], also known as accepted casinos or Internet casinos, are online versions of famous ("buddy and mortar") casinos. Online casinos drop separate gamblers to shred and wager on casino games completely the Internet.
Online casinos superficially introduce up respecting our times odds and payback percentages that are comparable to land-based casinos. Some online casinos navigate higher payback percentages as a physic with a impression unawareness gismo games, and some transform known payout piece audits on their websites. Assuming that the online casino is using an fittingly programmed indefinitely spaciousness a itemize up generator, become illusory to games like blackjack sine qua non an established congress edge. The payout segment aspire to of these games are established erstwhile the rules of the game.
Distinct online casinos commission in come short or overnight bag their software from companies like Microgaming, Realtime Gaming, Playtech, Worldwide Underhandedness Technology and CryptoLogic Inc.