Californian

Mike Hynson, San Diego 1966

Yeah, summer in San Diego is crowded, but it's fun seeking the little nooks that very few people surf. I've been hitting a couple spots for many years where people can be fewer than 50 yards away in a herd while I surf either alone or with a couple of others. Not sure why/how this happens, but it always amazes me that you can get that in the middle of summer in a place like San Diego.

Yesterday was one of those days when a magic window opens between high and low tide and everything falls into place. When I first got out there was too much water, conditions weren't coming together, but you could tell there was a little pulse. So, I got a few here and there before deciding to do some laps for exercise. By the time I paddled back to my usual spot everything had changed. The tide was going out and it was only a matter of time before it would get too low. In the span of an hour I don't know how many waves I had, but they just kept coming. A few people paddled over with enough to go around and within ten minutes everyone was gone, all going in at the same time. I stayed out for another 45 minutes and had some really fun waves. It had become oil-slick glass with the sunlight just perfect, the water nice and blue, and it might sound goofy, but I was so aware of being a Californian. It was just a very California moment is all I can say. While there have been some fun days here and there this summer, this just happened to be one beyond the norm. The waves weren't extraordinary, but really fun, no wind, good light, warm water, the Vaquero in effect, and nearly nobody else around. It's one of those sessions that fulfills you in a different way. Glad to see those still exist.