Saturday, December 29, 2007

Hard to Watch

Had breakfast with my wife and daughter at Ki's (Cardiff) this morning. We were there waiting to meet up with some friends visiting from out-of-town. The surf wasn't epic, but there were definitely some very fun-looking waves. Now, my family is the most important thing in the world to me, but damn! Anyone who has dealt with looking at sparkling glassy surf while unable to partake knows that painful tension I'm talking about.

Now it's raining.

Thursday, December 27, 2007

Today's Special…

…is Memphis Soul Stew.

1/2 teacup of bass
1 pound of fatback drums
4 level tablespoons of boiling Memphis guitar
a pinch of organ

King Curtis live in 1971. Not really the tightest version of this song. Check out Live at Filmore West for the real deal.

Friday, December 21, 2007

Welcome to the Family

A few views of the current lineup including the newest additions.
The Pavel 5-Fin is 7'11 with tapered stringer, Biofoam blank, and Marlin Bacon bamboo runners. The Andreini is 8'0 and indicative of the detail and craftsmanship Marc puts into his boards. I must add that he sent that L-Flex to me overnight when the board was shipped without it. I didn't expect it to be included. He goes above and beyond.

As you can see, the new additions haven't been ridden. I've only been able to get a couple of short sessions in lately and I've just been grabbing the familiar before I run out the door. Plus, I have this weird delayed gratification thing anyway. They'll be in the water when the time is right.

As always, thanks for checking in with the SB1000.

Thursday, December 20, 2007

Airline Design

Vintage airline design is definitely one of my things, and I haven't posted anything about it yet. The above image with a mix of baggage labels was bitten from a blog I recently happened upon. Though the blog isn't surf-related, there's still a whole lot of good stuff to check out. A nice eclectic mix with design as a clear throughline.

If there do happen to be any airline geeks out there, the website he got the images from is right here. The site isn't much to look at, just a basic archive, but man it runs pretty deep. Good stuff.

*Don't worry, I haven't forgotten about surfing. There's much to talk about; I just need the time to do it justice. Thanks for hanging in there.

Monday, December 17, 2007

Treat, 1970

Early Santana always takes me back to growing up in PL, playing in bands, backyard parties, etc. And for me it is also linked to surfing in the winter. Not sure why. To me it's just the sound of that area of San Diego, and we listened to it constantly on the way to surf sessions at OB or the cliffs. Beginning in my early twenties I pretty much shelved my Santana records and didn't listen to them for a long time. I was too into raw soul, funk, hip hop, jazz, etc. Plus, I don't think Santana has recorded a decent record since the late 70's and I had listened to all of the good ones until they were indelibly burned into my brain. Maybe I needed a break. Recently I began listening to my old records again, and I have to say it's been nice revisiting the warmth and soul of Santana 1, Abraxas, Santana 3, Welcome, Lotus, etc.

Anyway, here's a Treat from 1970. A more obvious choice would be Black Magic Woman, or Santana at Woodstock doing Soul Sacrifice. Both of these are great, but Treat is just such a gem. I hope you enjoy it.

Thursday, December 13, 2007


If you see Yoshie in the lineup, you better be nice. The Yubiwaza technique is some serious shit. She rides a 10 ft. Robert August Surftech with a leash and likes to get waves—a LOT of waves. She sits right on the peak and is really loud, talking about how things aren't the same as they were in the old days (2003). It can be annoying, but do not cut her off or you could get Yubiwaza'd.

Monday, December 10, 2007


More working than surfing lately. This has lead to fewer new posts than I'd like, but I'll get back on it soon. Hope all is well.

Friday, December 7, 2007

On a Stormy Day...

Bill Evans sounds especially good. Check out any of his stuff on the Verve or Riverside labels and it is impossible to be disappointed. Great piano trio music. Footage from '65. Enjoy.

Tuesday, December 4, 2007

Newbreak The T-Shirt?

Am I the only one who thinks these guys are completely missing the mark? I don't think surfers want to walk around with the names of surf spots on their chests. Who's going to wear a shirt that says Newbreak or Big Rock? Not the people that are actually surfing those spots. Maybe they'll nail it in the Midwest. Or, maybe I'm way off-base and they'll be a success. Seems that anything goes these days.

Monday, December 3, 2007

Halloween 1976

Guess which one I am. RIP Evel

Thursday, November 29, 2007


Now, I know this is treading dangerously close to Your Daily Donkey territory, but I couldn't resist posting this recent image from Surfshot. What a trippy shot. Considering it was taken at Swamis, there's gotta be a good caption in there somewhere.

Any takers?

Tuesday, November 27, 2007

Hold On...

What do you get when you mix Sam, Dave, the Mar Keys,
and Booker T/MG's? You get this! Quality footage from the
Stax-Volt '66 European tour.

Mid-Life Crisis?

Hopefully I'm too young for that. Even if it is, better a Fender Jazzmaster than a sportscar. I've obviously had music on the brain pretty heavily lately. After 20 years of playing drums, I've decided to pick up the guitar as well. I've always tooled around on guitars, but I've decided to persue it a bit more. I'm ready to be new at an instrument all over again.

While I'd love to get the Jazzmaster pictured above, the reality is I'm going to get a Fender mexi Telecaster like the one pictured below. Price is right, and I just love the sound of Telecasters. Pardon me here, but Steve Cropper fucking rules; don't know how else to say it. The Tele feels really playable and it's just a no-nonsense, bare-bones iconic workhouse. Think Joe Strummer, Keith Richards, etc. I'm stoked.

Thanks for tolerating my deviation from all things surf. I'll get back into that. Finally got the wetsuit, back in the water. The Andreini is done and I'll post more about all of that in the near future. Just need to mix it up a bit right now.

Monday, November 26, 2007


Check out this clip of Elvin Jones with his trio in the post-Coltrane years. I'm not an easily star-struck individual, but meeting him (though only briefly) was being in the presence of true greatness. Powerful.

Hope you all had a good holiday.

Tuesday, November 20, 2007

Headin' Out

No posts until after the holiday; time to get out of town with the family for a few days. Hope you all enjoy your week.

In the meantime, here's a little gem for you. Lightnin' Hopkins 1963.

Sunday, November 18, 2007

Jocko at PIpe

Super flat, soft round rails, heavy as hell—no problem! Pipe innovator along with Van Artsdalen, Peck, etc. Lopez openly acknowledges his debt to these guys. This image was featured at the Talking Pipe event with Jock and Gerry at Patagonia last week.

Friday, November 16, 2007

In-Flight Selection

60's era in-flight menu for United Airlines. For you design heads, Arkiva Tropika has a massive library of printed materials to browse. Enjoy.

Wednesday, November 14, 2007

Seen It?

Has anyone seen the Jason Jessee movie?

Monday, November 12, 2007

Back in the Mix

Back from a little break. Too much time in the digital world, needed to spend some time in analog mode for a few days. Actually been playing
a little music with some people; nice to get back behind the drumkit.

My Andreini Vaquero is done, and now I just have to get it down here.
I may head up to Santa Barbara and pick it up at the Beach House, or I may have Marc just send it down. I had a great 30 minute conversation with him regarding the specific origins of the Vaquero design. He's talked about it a bit in the short video he did on the Mollusk site, but it was great to hear the in-depth history. Of course Innermost Limits definitely had something to do with it. Marc is getting close to 60, but he talks about surfing, Greenough, films, etc. as if he's a super-stoked teenager. Inspiring.

Other than that, had a good time at the Gerry Lopez/Jock Sutherland talk at Patagonia. Some good imagery, good story, and a very solid crowd. Jock was a bit of a quiet-talker, but I was sitting in a spot where it wasn't a problem. Still, I think some people had a hard time picking up on a lot of it. Side note: Is it just me, or are the people at Patagonia Cardiff consistently some of the nicest people on the planet? I'm serious, always such a good vibe there. If any of you went, what did you think?

Been in work mode, looking forward to getting back in the water. Respect to my dad who did his stint in Vietnam. He's a good man.

Thursday, November 8, 2007

Sustainable 60's

Makaha, cardboard, Tom Morey, and Lester Beall's logo work.
An interesting mix.

Tuesday, November 6, 2007

Mark Cunningham

Featured in the latest episode of Hi Shredability. First two parts of four are posted. He's a trip. Enjoy.

Sunday, November 4, 2007


An appropriate follow-up to the previous post. From David Barringer in Emigre no. 68, American Mutt Barks in the Yard:

Are you lost? Or are you unwilling to admit cowardice in the muscle of your heart? When the economic calculations are made, weighing opportunistic careerism against good, ethical, soulful work, you are a prophet: you know which way your scales will tip. Ah, well. Self-preservation is an instinct of the apes whose genetic hides we have not fully shrugged off. Life advances not on the moving sidewalks of theoretical strategies, but on the messy improvisations of the vine-to-vine swing that we call a case-by-case basis. Maybe an easier crisis will come your way, one in which hypocrisy will feel as natural as a wool sweater and a judgment call will have nothing more at stake than money. Mortals can always try again (up to a point). In the meantime, be a patriot. Go shopping. Behold the wings of angels at the mall. In the feathers of sales tags will you find the map of your destiny revealed. It will have a magnetic strip on it.

Friday, November 2, 2007

It's a Shame About Joel

I mean, I should've known when Wayne Lynch decided to do one. I guess the Joel Tudor popout is old news to many, yet I hadn't heard about it until recently. Scott Henry mentioned it when we were talking last week. I remember reading an interview with Joel in Water magazine where he ensured that he wasn't interested in going the popout route. Again, money caves another one.

Now, I don't really want to get into debates about how shapers or designers, etc. deserve it since they are finally able to make a decent chunk of money and be recognized for their years of hard work. I also don't really care if they ride "just like my other boards." I will never own one. I can't. I would always rather be a part of the process. I like being able to have a conversation with the person who's actually making my board. I like to ask questions and give feedback. I like a board made by hand. I also won't get into the issue of machine-cut blanks, etc. I know what I like, but I'm not saying that's the only way.

Still, a popout is a popout. And what I do know is that they just don't do it for me. Tudor has always been an outspoken cat. He's always talked about soul, etc. Well, I don't see the soul in this move. But I do see the earning potential.

50th Post

Thanks to all of you for checking in and contributing your thoughts and feedback over the past couple of months. I'm having a good time with this and hope you're all enjoying it too. Have a good Friday.
Photo: Ron Stoner

Wednesday, October 31, 2007


Since I didn't do a Halloween-specific post today, I thought
could work for the nighttime blog checkers. It's pretty horrifying. Well, maybe it's more hilarious. Regardless, it's worth a look if you haven't already seen it.


For me, the most powerful musician ever recorded.
This one
is for my wife.

Monday, October 29, 2007

Caught Red-Handed

At the Mollusk Venice shop last week.

Thursday, October 25, 2007


In the SUPER Geeky Post last week I was surprised that nobody mentioned Dora as one of their favorites. Dora in his heyday is definitely one of my favorites. Love him or hate him, he had style.

Wednesday, October 24, 2007

Water in the Gills

Decided to jump in for a while tonight. Got about 1.5 hours before sunset; clean little waves that were kinda zippy before the tide got on it. Felt really good to be in the water. It was glassy and the sunset was incredible due to all the ash. Air is better than it has been.

Hope you all are safe/sound.

Tuesday, October 23, 2007

Absolute Respect

Not really in surf mode the past couple of days. This is unfortunate
since the surf has looked really good. The ash and overall bad air quality trump the need for surf. Barely. Thinking about paddling out
is a crazy contrast to the realities faced by firefighters and rescue personnel on the front lines of the fires. My best to all of them.

Monday, October 22, 2007

Heavy Days in SD

Lots going on here in San Diego today. I was awakened by a call from my wife at 5:30 this morning. She and my daughter are out of town (thankfully) and she got a call from her brother who was evacuated during the night. Air in La Jolla had been thick throughout yesterday and last night. I came down to my sister's closer to downtown and it's much better. Just heard they are doing voluntary evacuations in Solana Beach—damn, that's close.

I drove the coast route through La Jolla, PB, etc. and there were tons of people in the water. Good swell, clean conditions, but heavy air. Not for me, man. Hope everyone stays safe.

Saturday, October 20, 2007


If you're into reading/collecting surf-related books, check out this site. It isn't an extensive resource, and there are some pretty random titles in there. Still, there may be a little gem that grabs you. Worth a look just for some of the covers.

Friday, October 19, 2007

Sunset to Dark

Had a quick 40-minute session tonight before dark at the local beach. Kind of expected decent-sized walls, mainly closeouts. Was pleasantly surprised to find shoulder–to head-high corners on the sets, mild offshore, and some push. The red sled was working, the L-Flex was in effect—a really fun time. For some reason I haven't felt like paddling out the past week, and there's been some surf. Sometimes it's a matter of timing/tides/swell quality, etc. BUT, it's usually worth just getting out regardless. In fact, I had to push myself out the door tonight and I'm glad I did.

A friend of mine once said that the more you surf, the more you surf.
It's true! Now, for that wetsuit and some morning sessions again. Sometimes a short break can do some good.

Thursday, October 18, 2007

SUPER Geeky Post

Now, before you smirk, you know you've asked yourself this question. So, go easy on me.

List your 10 favorite surfers off the top of your head in no particular order. Like this: Nat Young, Michael Peterson, Lopez, Phil Edwards, Butch VanArtsdalen, Billy Hamilton, Larry Bertlemann, Joel Tudor, Skip Frye, Buttons


Wetsuit Update

Well, if you can believe it I'm still on the hunt. Things are looking less promising on the eco front at this time. As I mentioned, the Matuse suits are not cut for my type. No LT, and the XL is way too small. Patagonia was looking more and more inviting regardless of the price tag. Problem is, they haven't had any LT in stock for a while now. They aren't sure when they will be getting them and I guess there's a list of people who want them. The new Patagonia suit won't be available for at least another month and I won't be able to wait that long. With only a long-sleeve spring right now, I've been surfing less as it is. I get most of my surf time in the morning and it has been less and less inviting without a fullsuit.

So, I will most likely break down this weekend and go out to find the best possible option. Still open to suggestions. Hope you're all warm and getting waves.

Wednesday, October 17, 2007


A little snippet on Marc Andreini at wetsand. I'm looking forward to the board he shaped for me.

Monday, October 15, 2007

Sacred Craft

Just a quick ramble about the event. I think the Swayloholics Anonymous was happening at the same time. Anyone go?

Anyway, I only made it to the Expo on Saturday. That was pretty much enough for me, but I would have liked to see JP in the discussion about imported surfboards, etc. When I first walked in, I thought to myself that it would be a quick visit. It was pretty packed, and it was basically a mini trade show vibe. You can only ooh and ahh so much. Still, I wanted to wait to see the panel of "legends" and perhaps see Andreini in the shaper's booth. The booth was the full fishbowl effect. A bunch of people climbing on each other to get a glimpse into a couple of windows. It dawned on me that many of the people have very likely never actually seen a surfboard being built. I've seen my share so I didn't look on for extended periods of time. It was nice to see the first attacks on the blank and then cruise by later to contrast that with the finish work. I did end up seeing Andreini's shape and it was very tight indeed. As I posted before, the shape-off was a little weird in terms of judging guys based on being closest to the original shape. Though it wasn't a very intriguing element for me, I do think it was good to illustrate the fact that hand-built surfboards are still here and always will be. I hope it made some people appreciate it more and perhaps not take it for granted. For those who've only been off-the-rack buyers, maybe they'll create a relationship with a shaper and get a custom surfboard built personally for them.

Actually, it was at the shaper's booth that I connected with Erik Olson of Breaks Selection. As many of you know, Erik builds some very fine-looking surfboards and is a really nice guy to boot. Talking to him was a good time. In fact, for me it was the conversations and connections with people that made the event better. I spent a fair amount of time with the hull heads. Brian Hilbers of Fineline launched right into conversation and was a lot of fun to talk with. So was Kirk Putnam and a cat from Mollusk Venice (can't remember his name, good guy). There were some incredible looking blades in their stall.

Bought a few bars of eco-wax, connected with Toby (I'm supposed to meet him at 10am for the new shape; we'll see if it happens), told Sam George how much I liked his TSJ article about Sao Tome, asked John Peck a question, and that was pretty much it. Overall a pretty decent event. I'm sure it took a lot to make it happen. Bottom line, it was about surfing and surfboards; easy to complain, but worth it anyway.

Sunday, October 14, 2007

Did You Go?

If you did go to the Sacred Craft Consumer Surfboard Expo
what did you think? I'll give my report in the next post.

Friday, October 12, 2007

Thursday, October 11, 2007

A Good Egg

I'm into the boards Dain Thomas is making. This elasto single fin egg 8'0" x 21 1/2" x 2 7/8" is no exception. I'm a sucker for that outline. Always good to check in at Six Ounce Surfboards.

Tuesday, October 9, 2007

Thoughts on Shape Off?

I'm planning on heading to the Sacred Craft surfboard show this weekend. I have high hopes for a good event. One of the things that has me interested yet slightly puzzled is the Tribute to the Masters Shapeoff. Mike Diffenderfer is indeed a legend, master craftsman, and respected icon of surfing. I would love to own one of his vintage craft. I just think the idea of copying a shape of his and then judging who does the best job is just a little odd. I know replica shapes are an important part of our surf culture history; I'm all for it. It just seems strange to take a replica and then judge it based on what...whoever is closest to the original? Not sure if that's the exact criteria. Again, I'm not judging the idea or calling it a bad idea, I'm just unsure if I'm for it or ambivalent. I guess I would love to see shapers taking an existing shape and applying their own design ideas/concepts based on personal interpretation. Maybe this is what the plan is. What do you think?

Monday, October 8, 2007

Más Pescado

Some better shots of the big fish I posted a while back. Scott took these shots behind Mitch's Surf Shop the day I picked it up. I got it in April or early May and rode it all Spring and Summer. My go-to board for those smaller days or bigger days with more tide. One of the best boards I've ever had.

Saturday, October 6, 2007

Friday, October 5, 2007

I Know You Got Soul

Check for some Friday listening enjoyment. There are a bunch of 1 minute snippets of very rare soul 45's. You'll need Real Player which you can download for free here. And for your viewing pleasure, check out this visit with the Daptone Records studio. Um,'s from MTV?! Whaaaaat? I guess it's the Amy Winehouse deal. At least the Dap Kings are getting some due respect for what they've been up to. Still, I'll take Sharon Jones over Amy Winehouse any day of the week.
I found the clip on the Daptone site, not MTV. I can't hang with MTV.

Lastly, if you ask me, this is the best link of the bunch. Homer Steinweiss is the drummer behind much of the Daptone happenings.
Be sure to check the music and the art section.

Wednesday, October 3, 2007

Feedback on Rubber?

Morning sessions with some NW flow are getting a bit crisp in a longsleeve spring, so it's time. Any feedback on fullsuits? After several years of Mitch's Aleeda specials, I bought my first Hotline wetsuit in 1992. I take pretty damn good care of my wetsuits and in 15 years I've only had two Hotline fulls. Aside from being stuck with less advanced materials/technology, I feel having a wetsuit that lasts is crucial. Of course, comfort/flex matter too. I just don't get it when people talk about having a suit for a season before they need a new one.

Anyway...I've narrowed down the choices. I was bummed to hear that Hotline moved production overseas. Maybe they did that a while ago, but I liked having a suit made in Santa Cruz. I know that in Asia there are really just a couple of manufacturers who do most all of the major brands. Hotline has their own factory in Thailand. Matuse is China. Nineplus is China. Patagonia is what, Thailand too? Bottom line, I believe in Patagonia as a company with strong values. That's a big part of why I'm looking at their suits. I have read mixed reviews on durability, but they sound really comfortable and their guarantee is as good as it gets. I've heard a lot of positives about the Matuse suits as far as comfort, warmth, flexibility. And the Geoprene is a very good thing. They kind of went off with the logos/branding. I hate paying close to $500 and becoming a mini billboard. As I said, I've liked Hotline, but the eco tie-in of the other suits is a major reason I'm looking at them. Nineplus has some nice Yamamoto rubber and it does have style points. I'm not sure about any issues/concerns with workmanship/durability. Heard anything?

I've done my research, but any feedback you have on these suits—especially the Patagonia, Matuse and Nineplus—is greatly appreciated. I'm going to buy from one of these companies.

*EDIT: Tried on a Matuse suit today and it's a no-go. Their XL is way too short for me and they don't have a Large Tall. At least that makes the choice a little easier. All I can say about the suit is that it felt pretty nice if not a little fragile. The materials were definitely buttery.

Monday, October 1, 2007

Red Sled

My 7'0" egg shaped by Scott Henry. Check out Scott's blog where he is just starting to post pictures of his boards, customers, etc. He plans on updating consistently, so be sure to check it out. He has images of some incredible boards he's been making. He's been totally committed to board-building since 1972.

There's an interesting story about the Red Sled. I saw an identical 6'9" version of this board on the racks at Mitch's last year. While I often see boards in shops that attract my eye, the 6'9" grabbed and wouldn't let go. My wife and I were there and I almost made the impulse purchase, but I didn't. After obsessing over it for two weeks I went back in to buy it one day and it had a note on it that said, "Save for Daisy." Okay, who the HELL was Daisy, and why did she want the board I was ready to buy on the spot? Someone said she was getting it for her husband, something like that. All I could say was "lucky bastard." Not to be deterred, I ordered a 7' version of the board on the spot, same tint and everything. Scott said he'd have the board done in 10 days. I didn't believe him, but on the 10th day the phone rang!

Long story short, guess who Daisy was? That lucky bastard husband of hers ended up being me. My wife wanted to get it for me as a Christmas gift. It all worked out in the end. I got the 7'0" and the 6'9" eventually sold off the rack. I am indeed a lucky bastard.

Saturday, September 29, 2007

D. Malloy

Dan Malloy is the latest subject on Hi Shredability. If you haven't already seen them, the Alex Knost segments are good watching too.

Thursday, September 27, 2007


Nice quad shaped by Scott Henry. I have two boards that Scott made me during the past year, and I have to say they are two of the best boards I've ever had. Scott has been shaping for over 35 years. He is rooted in the past but dedicated to exploration and pushing design. He makes everything from modern shortboards to all kinds of funky mid-lengths, fishes and classic logs.

Another cat who is making beautiful boards is Erik Hakon Olson; many of you know him through the Breaks Selection blog. I haven't gotten a board from him yet, but that will have to change.

Don't want to preach to the choir, but let's always support the craftspeople who make surfing what it is.