Tuesday, December 9, 2008


Man, a lot more work than surf lately. Yep, haven't been out in three weeks. Yep, missed all of the recent swell activity. Yep, I'm a kook because I just cannot get my ass up early enough to surf before the rest of the day starts.

To be fair, we just opened our new business, and after so much effort it has been it's own massive reward for sure. I do need some water in the gills, but I'm really stoked on what we have created. Not a surplus of sleep though.

So, I'll keep posting from time to time. There are so many other vital, active surf blogs these days, there's more than enough to check out as it is. Still, I can't seem to pull the plug completely. I still enjoy reading all of your blogs, pretty much everyday.

If you're into tea and you're in or near San Diego, I'm at the shop everyday except Monday. Halcyon Tea: 3009 Beech Street, 92102 in South Park.

The tide is pretty damn high tomorrow morning.

Thursday, November 20, 2008

This Never Gets Old

You've probably seen it, but I never get tired of watching Val Ching from 1963.

Tuesday, November 11, 2008

Sunday, November 2, 2008

Friday, October 31, 2008

Nude as the News

I'm digging this live clip. Chan Marshall with Steve Shelley on point behind the kit.

Friday, October 24, 2008


Love this photo. Found it via the resintint blog, which I always enjoy checking out. The photographer is Keith Novosel, and you can see more of his work at www.fluidmotionphoto.com.

Been into the weather and zero wind all day long. Had a few really fun sessions over the past couple of weeks. Hope you've all been getting your share too.

Sunday, October 12, 2008

Wednesday, October 1, 2008

Classic San Diego

Osprey, 1966

Big Rock, 1966

Skip at PB Point, 1965

You may have already seen this Flickr set, but if you haven't there are a few gems for sure.

Saturday, September 27, 2008

Dorkiness From Yesteryear

Don't ask me how I came across this photo; I don't recall. Honestly. But, for whatever reason this appeared and I was instantly blasted back to 1980 or so. I had one of these on my Torker. Or, maybe it was after that, on my Diamond Back. Anyway, I hadn't seen nor thought of anything related to the whole BMX thing since I was about 11. It was a trip.

Can you tell the surf has been lame around here the past few days?

Monday, September 22, 2008


Wish I brought the camera today. The local beach was glassy for hours, clean with some very fun pick-and-choose gems. The light was absolutely incredible, and I simply couldn't get out of the water. Neck and shoulders are a bit worked due to lots of laps and stalking the shifting corners. To top it off, really good vibes in the water and very few people. I'm still feeling the buzz.

Monday, September 15, 2008

Bronx River Parkway

La Valla. This is a must listen.

Up early today, but nothing too happening surf-wise. Had a fun hour-long session on Friday. Sometimes the local beach works well at high tide. Some fun little peelers before dark.

Wednesday, September 10, 2008

Damn, JB! Where you been?

Workin'! Been super busy, and the shop is almost open. Have some final build-out to do, but we're almost there. Still been making time to get in the water, but the weather/wind hasn't cooperated with me the past few days. Yesterday I had to drive up to LA and it was sunny, minimal wind, and it looked fun driving past a few spots. Got up this morning and the wind was already on it! I gotta get in tomorrow no matter what.

We printed up these shop business cards a few weeks back. Not sure if there are any ink-on-paper heads out there, but I'm stoked on the subtle letterpress job. Doing the design for your own company is always complicated, but in the end I'm pretty stoked.

Thanks for checking in.


Saturday, August 23, 2008


Mike Hynson, San Diego 1966

Yeah, summer in San Diego is crowded, but it's fun seeking the little nooks that very few people surf. I've been hitting a couple spots for many years where people can be fewer than 50 yards away in a herd while I surf either alone or with a couple of others. Not sure why/how this happens, but it always amazes me that you can get that in the middle of summer in a place like San Diego.

Yesterday was one of those days when a magic window opens between high and low tide and everything falls into place. When I first got out there was too much water, conditions weren't coming together, but you could tell there was a little pulse. So, I got a few here and there before deciding to do some laps for exercise. By the time I paddled back to my usual spot everything had changed. The tide was going out and it was only a matter of time before it would get too low. In the span of an hour I don't know how many waves I had, but they just kept coming. A few people paddled over with enough to go around and within ten minutes everyone was gone, all going in at the same time. I stayed out for another 45 minutes and had some really fun waves. It had become oil-slick glass with the sunlight just perfect, the water nice and blue, and it might sound goofy, but I was so aware of being a Californian. It was just a very California moment is all I can say. While there have been some fun days here and there this summer, this just happened to be one beyond the norm. The waves weren't extraordinary, but really fun, no wind, good light, warm water, the Vaquero in effect, and nearly nobody else around. It's one of those sessions that fulfills you in a different way. Glad to see those still exist.

Saturday, August 16, 2008

Fresh Fruit

Jello Biafra interviewed by Jools Holland during the Fresh Fruit for Rotting Vegetables era.

Wednesday, August 13, 2008

I Heart Vests

I don't know why, but I haven't had a vest for a few years now. I used to always wear them from late spring into early fall, but I've been wearing a jacket for a while since I've been fried on the shoulders a fair amount of times in life. But, I decided it's time again as I'm sick of having tan hands and nothing else. I know, a vest tan isn't much better.

Anyway, I was on a mission for a thicker vest with smoothie, and I was kind of hot on the O'Neill O'riginal series vest. Not to be all retro, but I can't hang with so many vests and the disco logos they have going on. Yeah, I'm weird that way. Anyway, I could not find my size in any shop. Finally I did, and it fit great except for the big chunk taken out of the back, most likely from someone's fingernail. No thanks. So, I was about to give up when I happened into a random shop and found the Nine Plus vest above. Now, these things run pretty small, and I was bummed to see they only had an XXL size. But I tried it on, and it was perfect. Plus, it has a zip instead of being a straight pullover like the O'Neill. All happened the way it was meant to. And, Patagonia was completely sold out until next year, so that wasn't an option.

Why am I writing so much about a vest? The thing is 3 mm, super comfortable with the Yamamoto smoothie, and my favorite vest so far. I have heard of some durability issues with the Nine Plus fulls, but I take really good care of all my shit, so I have high hopes that this one will last a while for me.

A few fun days of surf early in the week and the end of last week. All in all, not a bad summer for surf around here other than the wind.

Hope you're all enjoying yours.

Wednesday, August 6, 2008


One of my favorite images from Dane Peterson's Flickr page.

Saturday, August 2, 2008


Who the hell would wear this? But if you feel so inclined, it can be yours for $1,295. No problem! The description says it was made in the 60s, but who knows. It may well be. I'll shut up and let you check out the description they retailer provides:

You are looking at one of the most highly sought after vintage shirts on this planet. This very, very rare pleasure from paradise was put out in the 1960's to promote the now infamous surfing movie "Endless Summer". The fabic on this vintage treasure is graced with a killer full panel pattern on both the back and front of the shirt (see photos). You will see the silhouettes of surfers against a golden yellow and atomic orange sunset. This baby also has a zip up the front so you can be as sexy as you want to be !! Or you can wear this as a jacket with a t-shirt underneath. Do not miss this once in a life time chance to own a killer piece of Hawaiian shirt surfing history. This stunning shirt would look amazing framed in koa wood and hung as a piece or art !!

Yep, it actually said, "as sexy as you want to be" and it was talking about this very shirt. Damn.

Thursday, July 31, 2008


Just saw Bustin' Down the Door last night. I liked it, and even though I knew the basic story it was nice to have it told by the guys. Noticeably absent were Lopez, Bertlemann, Rory, etc. May have been cool to get their perspectives on the deal, but it was good to hear BK's thoughts.

Been limping along here with the SB1000. Not sure if anyone's out there anymore. I'll see where this goes, see how much more life it has in it, etc. One thing I don't like is half-assed surf blogs, and this is becoming one.

Tuesday, July 15, 2008

If You Like Bongos...

...then you'll like this clip if you haven't seen it already.

Friday, July 4, 2008


Okay, how many people have covered this song? I just don't know if I've heard a better version. I think The Sonics were among the finest of the entire 60's garage scene. I know, "garage" is an overused term. Anyway, if you're into that stuff, check it.

Sunday, June 29, 2008


The whole of the experience is much greater than the component parts of board/wave/rider,etc. You can break down the elements and admire each individually, but put it all together...

Friday, June 20, 2008

The Greatest

Feeling Coltrane right now. This is from his Jazz Casual episode. It's an often seen clip, but still one of the most powerful performances of (in my mind) the greatest musician of any era.

Thursday, June 19, 2008

A Quick Chat

With Brian Jones in two short spots.

Number one.

Number two.

Sunday, June 15, 2008

Sunday, June 8, 2008

Big Shores

Not sure when the photo was taken, but damn!

Friday, June 6, 2008


There was indeed some good music in the 80's—a lot of it actually. It's easy to lump everything together into memories of Men Without Hats, Thompson Twins, etc. Luckily there was more than that.

The Colourfield was fronted by Terry Hall (Specials, Fun Boy Three) and this cut still holds up if you ask me.

Thursday, June 5, 2008

Summer Sessions

Time to break out the fins again.

Wednesday, May 28, 2008


This one was a staple of the Point Loma backyard party scene when we were in high school. Do kids even have parties like that anymore?

Monday, May 19, 2008

Gone Too Far?

I'm just asking.

Monday, May 12, 2008

Rudderless 70s

Nuuwiha being trailed by his own fin.

Saturday, May 10, 2008

Hot Photo #1

By maestro Grannis, of course. I love this shot.

Wednesday, May 7, 2008

Flat Duo Jets

Waaaay before the Black Keys we had the Flat Duo Jets. A raw live clip, and a classic snippet from IRS's The Cutting Edge. I miss that show.

Saturday, May 3, 2008

Last Night

The Mar-Keys are what you get when you add on to the BTMGs quartet. I love how these guys all worked together, separately, as partial combos, etc. No matter how you slice it, it's history and a crucial part of American music.

Tuesday, April 29, 2008

Red Beans & Rice

Live. On a Steve Cropper kick again. Great intro if you speak Norwegian.

I Wish I Was a Catfish

Actually, if I could choose I'd rather be a dolphin, but it just wouldn't work the same here. Muddy and his Tele, Newport 1960.

Saturday, April 26, 2008

Morning Session

Weird morning here in SD. Surfed north county until we were told to exit the water. The helicopter circled us for a while before we got out. It was kind of surreal to hear over a loudspeaker, "This is the lifeguard, there's been a fatal shark attack. Exit the water." There's going to be a lot of hype going down. Thoughts to the man's family.

Tuesday, April 22, 2008

Back en Acción

It's been a nice albeit busy hiatus from the SB1000. Nice to step back, get out of Dodge, and get some fresh perspective. So, what's been happening?

Been surfing the Andreini more than any of my other boards. Definitely appeals to my single-fin minimalist side, and it's a nice contrast to the big twin (which is one of the best boards I've ever had) and the others. I've ridden it from chest/head high to really little days and the versatility is there. But it really turns on in better surf. The cleanest fades are possible on this thing. I'll talk more about it later.

Had some nice down time with my girls. There's nothing like getting out of town and enjoying each other in different environments.

Been playing a lot of guitar too. It's been nice to bring music back to a more consistent place. I'm set to play drums with a few cats I recently met. We'll see how that all pans out.

Been building out the shop and it is coming along incredibly well. We have sourced sustainable/recycled materials throughout the entire space; from the floor, to the walls, to all of the cabinetry. And it all looks really tight. If anyone ever needs woodwork done in the San Diego area let me know and I'll refer our guy. He's legit.

Tea. Lots and lots of it. All day, every day. We are fiends, and crafting our exact list for the shop is actually a challenge, but so much fun.

And I became an uncle for the first time. Yep, Uncle JB. Audrey was born to my sister and her husband on 3.31.

That's it for now. Not super surf-related, but thanks for checking in.


Monday, March 10, 2008


I'll be on vacation for a bit. Back in a month or so, but not gone forever. I'll be checking your blogs and posting comments here and there. I can still be reached via email at any time.

Take it easy.


Monday, February 25, 2008

New Deck

Kinda dorky, but I'm stoked on this new deck I got for my birthday. I had this same board when I was 15 in a different colorway. I must confess I fell to the resurgence of old(er) guy skaters a couple of years back and got a deck, new 151s and a set of original NOS Santa Cruz Bullets. It has been fun! But that's been on a Mike Valelly reissue, and his model was just after my time. I mellowed on skating when I broke my finger and drums were more important to me at 17.

Anyway, we used to dig watching Steadham in the keyhole at Del Mar. Other skaters may have been more technical, but he had great flow. Check this recent video of him at Encinitas. 45 years old and still pretty damn tight. Nice railslide at :15.

Tuesday, February 19, 2008

Truth and Soul: The Podcast

Not only an insanely good label and online record shop, but absolutely one of the best podcasts for soul/funk heads. Check the site and it will take you right to the podcast. The featured show from the above image is by DJ L Michel and features some obscure latin soul/funk gems. I also have to recommend show #7 with El Michels Affair playing live Wu-Tang cuts with full band and the MCs. This band is connected to the whole Daptone, Budos Band, Antibalas, Mighty Imperials, etc. scene. A lot of the same players. Check the feel on drummer Homer Steinweiss in this little live snippet. So nice.

Saturday, February 16, 2008

From the Stacks

Yeah, the B-52's have had their day. They're still out there playing, but I'm talking about 1978–1981 or so. This first album is so damn good! I'm not thinking Rock Lobster (which was endearingly quirky in 1979), but cuts like 52 Girls and 6060842! I broke this record out after not listening to it for years, and I forgot how good it was. For a combo out of Georgia in the late 70's they were tapping into the right stuff. Throw in the old keyboards, cheap guitars, and you got a signature foundation that worked very well with the vocals of Kate Pierson and Cindy Wilson. Funny, when I first saw this as a 9 year-old kid the album cover kind of freaked me out in ways my early Kiss records never could. Not sure why. But New Wave Theater and the Dead Kennedys soon took care of that.

Thursday, February 14, 2008

Have You Seen This?

If so, can you give me the rundown? I know it's been around for a while, but I haven't seen it. How is it? Worth getting? Seems like it has to be good; you can never get enough Greenough as far as I'm concerned. Any feedback is appreciated. Thanks.

Wednesday, February 13, 2008

Hell No.

I know, bad choice of images for a surf blog.

Monday, February 11, 2008

Over Head

PACIFICA — A Brazilian teen who misjudged the movement of the tide on Sunday had to be rescued by a Coast Guard helicopter as he sat on his surfboard at sea, according to officials.

Eric Urban, 17, a surfer visiting local relatives, was out in the water off Sharp Park Beach around 2:25 p.m. when he realized he couldn't get back in, he said Sunday. Although the waves were not quite 10 feet high, the tide was dropping and he got pulled away to a point about 200 yards south of the Pacifica Pier.

A distress call summoned the Pacifica Fire Department and a Coast Guard boat and helicopter, which arrived at 2:30 p.m., according to Coast Guard Petty Officer Russell Nagle.

The helicopter sent a rescue swimmer into the ocean who helped attach Urban to a cable.

Fifteen minutes later, the helicopter deposited the chilled, but healthy, surfer a short distance away on land.

"He was inexperienced and couldn't make his way," said Nagle. Urban said he was the only surfer in the area when he first paddled out.

Sunday, February 10, 2008

Summer in February

With some surf! Had a lot of fun today and yesterday. Decent amounts of people in the water, but the little nooks were out there. In the midst of the throngs my brother-in-law and I felt like we were surfing by ourselves for parts of the session. Last wave in, paddled away from the pack again, down to where I could feel something wanted to pop up (know that feeling?), and sure enough, nice shoulder-high corner all the way to the beach. Good way to end it.

Friday, February 8, 2008

Too Many Orders Pavel

We all know Toby has blown-up over the last few years as a designer/shaper. The picture on the left is from a custom shape session he did for me in late 2003; the one on the right is the bonzer he did for me a few months back. Notice a difference? Yeah, we all age over four years time, but damn! Even with machines and ghost shapers, he has an intensely formidable list of customs. I hope he's able to pull it off. Good luck, Toblerone.