Dorkiness From Yesteryear

Don't ask me how I came across this photo; I don't recall. Honestly. But, for whatever reason this appeared and I was instantly blasted back to 1980 or so. I had one of these on my Torker. Or, maybe it was after that, on my Diamond Back. Anyway, I hadn't seen nor thought of anything related to the whole BMX thing since I was about 11. It was a trip.

Can you tell the surf has been lame around here the past few days?

Equinox

Wish I brought the camera today. The local beach was glassy for hours, clean with some very fun pick-and-choose gems. The light was absolutely incredible, and I simply couldn't get out of the water. Neck and shoulders are a bit worked due to lots of laps and stalking the shifting corners. To top it off, really good vibes in the water and very few people. I'm still feeling the buzz.

Bronx River Parkway

La Valla. This is a must listen.

Up early today, but nothing too happening surf-wise. Had a fun hour-long session on Friday. Sometimes the local beach works well at high tide. Some fun little peelers before dark.

Damn, JB! Where you been?

Workin'! Been super busy, and the shop is almost open. Have some final build-out to do, but we're almost there. Still been making time to get in the water, but the weather/wind hasn't cooperated with me the past few days. Yesterday I had to drive up to LA and it was sunny, minimal wind, and it looked fun driving past a few spots. Got up this morning and the wind was already on it! I gotta get in tomorrow no matter what.

We printed up these shop business cards a few weeks back. Not sure if there are any ink-on-paper heads out there, but I'm stoked on the subtle letterpress job. Doing the design for your own company is always complicated, but in the end I'm pretty stoked.

Thanks for checking in.

jb

Californian

Mike Hynson, San Diego 1966

Yeah, summer in San Diego is crowded, but it's fun seeking the little nooks that very few people surf. I've been hitting a couple spots for many years where people can be fewer than 50 yards away in a herd while I surf either alone or with a couple of others. Not sure why/how this happens, but it always amazes me that you can get that in the middle of summer in a place like San Diego.

Yesterday was one of those days when a magic window opens between high and low tide and everything falls into place. When I first got out there was too much water, conditions weren't coming together, but you could tell there was a little pulse. So, I got a few here and there before deciding to do some laps for exercise. By the time I paddled back to my usual spot everything had changed. The tide was going out and it was only a matter of time before it would get too low. In the span of an hour I don't know how many waves I had, but they just kept coming. A few people paddled over with enough to go around and within ten minutes everyone was gone, all going in at the same time. I stayed out for another 45 minutes and had some really fun waves. It had become oil-slick glass with the sunlight just perfect, the water nice and blue, and it might sound goofy, but I was so aware of being a Californian. It was just a very California moment is all I can say. While there have been some fun days here and there this summer, this just happened to be one beyond the norm. The waves weren't extraordinary, but really fun, no wind, good light, warm water, the Vaquero in effect, and nearly nobody else around. It's one of those sessions that fulfills you in a different way. Glad to see those still exist.

Fresh Fruit

Jello Biafra interviewed by Jools Holland during the Fresh Fruit for Rotting Vegetables era.

I Heart Vests

I don't know why, but I haven't had a vest for a few years now. I used to always wear them from late spring into early fall, but I've been wearing a jacket for a while since I've been fried on the shoulders a fair amount of times in life. But, I decided it's time again as I'm sick of having tan hands and nothing else. I know, a vest tan isn't much better.

Anyway, I was on a mission for a thicker vest with smoothie, and I was kind of hot on the O'Neill O'riginal series vest. Not to be all retro, but I can't hang with so many vests and the disco logos they have going on. Yeah, I'm weird that way. Anyway, I could not find my size in any shop. Finally I did, and it fit great except for the big chunk taken out of the back, most likely from someone's fingernail. No thanks. So, I was about to give up when I happened into a random shop and found the Nine Plus vest above. Now, these things run pretty small, and I was bummed to see they only had an XXL size. But I tried it on, and it was perfect. Plus, it has a zip instead of being a straight pullover like the O'Neill. All happened the way it was meant to. And, Patagonia was completely sold out until next year, so that wasn't an option.

Why am I writing so much about a vest? The thing is 3 mm, super comfortable with the Yamamoto smoothie, and my favorite vest so far. I have heard of some durability issues with the Nine Plus fulls, but I take really good care of all my shit, so I have high hopes that this one will last a while for me.

A few fun days of surf early in the week and the end of last week. All in all, not a bad summer for surf around here other than the wind.

Hope you're all enjoying yours.

Nice.

One of my favorite images from Dane Peterson's Flickr page.

Untitled

Who the hell would wear this? But if you feel so inclined, it can be yours for $1,295. No problem! The description says it was made in the 60s, but who knows. It may well be. I'll shut up and let you check out the description they retailer provides:

You are looking at one of the most highly sought after vintage shirts on this planet. This very, very rare pleasure from paradise was put out in the 1960's to promote the now infamous surfing movie "Endless Summer". The fabic on this vintage treasure is graced with a killer full panel pattern on both the back and front of the shirt (see photos). You will see the silhouettes of surfers against a golden yellow and atomic orange sunset. This baby also has a zip up the front so you can be as sexy as you want to be !! Or you can wear this as a jacket with a t-shirt underneath. Do not miss this once in a life time chance to own a killer piece of Hawaiian shirt surfing history. This stunning shirt would look amazing framed in koa wood and hung as a piece or art !!

Yep, it actually said, "as sexy as you want to be" and it was talking about this very shirt. Damn.

Conejo

Just saw Bustin' Down the Door last night. I liked it, and even though I knew the basic story it was nice to have it told by the guys. Noticeably absent were Lopez, Bertlemann, Rory, etc. May have been cool to get their perspectives on the deal, but it was good to hear BK's thoughts.

Been limping along here with the SB1000. Not sure if anyone's out there anymore. I'll see where this goes, see how much more life it has in it, etc. One thing I don't like is half-assed surf blogs, and this is becoming one.

If You Like Bongos...

...then you'll like this clip if you haven't seen it already.

Raw(k)ness

Okay, how many people have covered this song? I just don't know if I've heard a better version. I think The Sonics were among the finest of the entire 60's garage scene. I know, "garage" is an overused term. Anyway, if you're into that stuff, check it.

Demateralize

The whole of the experience is much greater than the component parts of board/wave/rider,etc. You can break down the elements and admire each individually, but put it all together...

The Greatest

Feeling Coltrane right now. This is from his Jazz Casual episode. It's an often seen clip, but still one of the most powerful performances of (in my mind) the greatest musician of any era.

A Quick Chat

With Brian Jones in two short spots.

Number one.

Number two.