Saturday, September 15, 2007


Funny session yesterday. The beach was working pretty well as the tide filled in. I surfed from 11 to 1. It was lined-up, wind wasn't a factor, and it was really sunny. Cold water, but no big deal. Vibes were generally good even with a little bit of a crowd.

Late into the session a nice little right comes through and I'm heading for it as another guy does the same (I'm in position). I know he's gonna fade me; he does. I laughed at him as he looked back; not the reaction he was expecting, I suppose. He paddles back out and I am close to him just smiling, having a good day. I really try to stay positive out in the water, and this was no reason to bum an otherwise fun session. A few waves later another right comes through and now his buddy is in the same position with me on the inside ready to go. He paddles as if he's going to drop in on me. I take a high line towards him and he doesn't go, but he basically sticks his board into the wave a bit, just to be a dick. I cut back and go around; it's a fun wave. I'm pissed at this point and take a few breaths as I paddle back out. I paddle right in between them and you can feel that we're all aware of the situation. I stay light, but am aggressive when the waves come through. One of them completely blows a nice wave. They know I'm not going to budge and paddle south down to another peak.

That's it. No dramatic finish; just some vibes. It was annoying, but it's incredible how people change when they don't get a reactive response from you. But I have to admit, it's always nice to see them bury their nose on a peaky set wave.


Surfsister said...

It really isn't hard not to be an asshole, is it? Why do people want to bring their bad attitudes and bad karma with them into the water? Good lookin' out!

jb said...

Some days are harder than others, but I always try to stay positive. Now if I could just figure out how to do this while driving.

Alan_M said...

Some dude over the labor day swell did the nose poke at me, this big burly dude who was just being an all around dick. It made my day to pull high and tight as I glided by him, but he almost nailed me i the nuts! Oh well, getting a great wave is the best revenge heehee...

jb said...

Yes it is.

warm jet said...

I miss the beachbreak fade move.
I can remember a very peaky hollow day with some knuckleheads in the line up and 2 times I was attempting to backdoor a right and made it plainly so to the &^%%. We bumped, I straightened and stared at a spitting barrel leave me.
This guy looked at me like I was crazy.
The 2nd time I grabbed his nose and said excuse me and got a nice barrel.
Did'nt make it.
Guess I'm a hog.