Had a quick 40-minute session tonight before dark at the local beach. Kind of expected decent-sized walls, mainly closeouts. Was pleasantly surprised to find shoulder–to head-high corners on the sets, mild offshore, and some push. The red sled was working, the L-Flex was in effect—a really fun time. For some reason I haven't felt like paddling out the past week, and there's been some surf. Sometimes it's a matter of timing/tides/swell quality, etc. BUT, it's usually worth just getting out regardless. In fact, I had to push myself out the door tonight and I'm glad I did.
A friend of mine once said that the more you surf, the more you surf.
It's true! Now, for that wetsuit and some morning sessions again. Sometimes a short break can do some good.
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